Something about them looks different

Good eye! Inkles are a warp-faced weave. Typically, the warp (the yarn that runs the long way, front to back), and the weft (the yarn that runs side to side) alternate with their neighbors in an “over and under” sequence. You see this in many materials, not just fabric. Think baskets, pie tops, and fences for example.

Inkles start with that structure, but then squish the warps together, covering the weft. For instance, in regular fabric with red warps and yellow weft you would see both colors in a checkerboard pattern. In warp faced fabrics you would only see red, with little dots of yellow at the edges (the sevelvage) where the weft makes the turn from one row to the next.

And sometimes there's a long thread?

That’s called a pattern thread. When one or more warps (or the weft, for that matter) are taken out of their usual over/under sequence it just sort of lays on the surface until it gets back in sequence.

It’s a good way to create a decorative element. You might see just one or two pattern threads used as an accent. Some weavers use many, many to create exquisite bands with extraordinary patterns.

Warps that are taken out of sequence intentionally are called floats. Done unintentionally they’re called mistakes.

Thanks for looking

I appreciate your interest in handwoven goods. Custom orders are welcome, so don't hesitate to contact me if you have an idea to explore. Contact page is on the items site.

Craig F Jordan